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takyon writes:

Tacos, dumplings, bagels: the complicated politics of food emoji

Like all emoji, the bagel emoji is a tiny cartoon representation of its namesake, which is, again, a bagel. It is round like a bagel and brown like a bagel. It appears to be a plain bagel, which is not the best kind of bagel but also not the worst. It is a blank slate of a bagel —arguably, the bagel-iest kind of bagel, if not the most visually interesting. It is depicted sliced in half, and dry. Is this a good way to eat a bagel? No. Still, the image is very successful at doing its job, which is to communicate the concept of "bagel."

Bagel enthusiasts, though, were very upset. "Take a look at this clearly machine-cut monstrosity with its stiff and bready interior, which couldn't possibly be redeemed by a few minutes in a toaster," lamented Nikita Richardson at Grub Street. (Redemption is the only reason a bagel should ever be toasted, according to true bagel originalists; to toast a fresh bagel is a symptom of what former New York Times food critic and current culinary curmudgeon Mimi Sheraton calls a "decline in the craft of bagel making.")

[...] Part of the bagelmoji ire, explains Heather Schwedel at Slate, is a performance of discerning taste. "People want to demonstrate that they, unlike those emoji rubes, know from good bagels," she writes, noting that with much of the outcry coming from New York, "there may be some geographic snobbery going on too." A good way to prove you are a true New Yorker is to be extremely opinionated about bagels, whether real or pixelated.

[...] But as Jeremy Burge, the founder of Emojipedia and creator of World Emoji Day, told CNN, people want to see themselves in their tiny icons. "Some of the most vocal requests for new emojis are about representation," he said. The dumpling, the taco, and the pan of paella, for example, all had extremely popular backing. Linguists may not consider emoji a language, Jennifer 8. Lee, the driving force behind the dumpling emoji, told the Atlantic, but "for people who use them, it's almost like fighting for a word that [shows] you exist. When you come up with a word to describe your population, it's a very powerful thing."

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Google CEO Drops Everything to Fix Cheeseburger Emoji
Microsoft Briefly Left Holding the Gun Emoji

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