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posted by chromas on Tuesday November 20 2018, @10:22PM   Printer-friendly
from the kitcheneering dept.

Eater has a longer article on how sourdough, and bread in general, is back in fashion and the changes being inflicted on the millenias-old staple by tech bros.

“I spent a lot of time — I don’t want to say ‘debugging,’ because that sounds really technical — but just working on recipes and trying to teach myself and there really weren’t a lot of materials out there at the time to do that,” he told me by phone this spring. “With bread baking, you kind of follow an algorithm to produce a result and that result isn’t always what you think it’s going to be, so you kind of have to step back and debug and diagnose the steps along the way. How did I go wrong here? That’s because technically the temperature might not be right or the dough strength might not be right. That iterative procedure and working through those algorithms kind of appeals to engineer. There’s the precision part of it, but also, when it comes down to it, technical people like to work with their hands. You want to construct something and I think bread is a good way to do that.”


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  • (Score: 2) by takyon on Wednesday November 21 2018, @11:47AM (9 children)

    by takyon (881) <takyonNO@SPAMsoylentnews.org> on Wednesday November 21 2018, @11:47AM (#764669) Journal

    The (electric) pressure cooker is almost worth it alone for its ability to turn dried black beans into prepared in just under an hour (or even less if you give it the pre-soak). I made two cups of dried beans earlier, then took off the lid and threw in more ingredients to make a nice black bean soup. I did prepare several of the ingredients on the stove since I didn't want to remove the beans to saute things.

    I have made caramelized onions in the pressure cooker a couple of times. My understanding [seriouseats.com] is that it caramelizes at a rate that would be impossible otherwise since the higher temperature would normally burn the onions. So it is the optimal way to caramelize, not the stove. I did get it "mush" french onion soup form when I did it, but it may be possible to avoid that [reddit.com].

    I've used the same device (Instant Pot) to make about 10 gallons of yogurt or so at this point. Someone on here told me they had a lot of trouble making yogurt from scratch, but I have found it to be remarkably easy. Very cheap too. Only thing is that you want to run the device with some water+vinegar in order to clear out the smells from previous foods. Unless you're fine with a savory-tasting yogurt.

    I've also made pulled pork in the thing. And it's at this point that I realize that the list of things I make with it is almost exactly the same as what you have already made. Except I make my rice in a separate rice cooker.

    One thing the electric pressure cooker is not supposed to do (yet) is pressure canning. It's too small, and/or the internal pressure and temperature could be inconsistent. But there has been some effort to bring a model to the market that can safely do canning.
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  • (Score: 2) by Immerman on Wednesday November 21 2018, @03:47PM (1 child)

    by Immerman (3985) on Wednesday November 21 2018, @03:47PM (#764765)

    I've got to agree on the beans. I do love a good pot of beans, and it's *so* easy in the instant pot. Had never heard of carmelized onions that way, but what do you know, there's an easy recipe I'll have to try. Curious - I thought you needed a considerably higher temperature than boiling water to carmelize, and even at 15psi you only get around than 40*F/20*C more, so probably about 30F/15C for the 11psi of an instant pot. I guess that's enough.

    Indeed, I've found yogurt extremely easy as well, though I notice a lot of the recipes are gratuitously complicated, which might make it easy to miss a critical step amongst all the noise. Pasteurize, cool to below 110F, mix in starter. Everything else seems to be noise. (I immediately freeze ~1/2 cup from each batch to start the next). I have found there's a wide range in yogurt flavor and firmness depending on what brand of yogurt you use as your initial starter - and of course you need to make sure it contains live cultures or it won't do anything. It's can also be worth straining if you like it thick (greek style) - I use a flour-sack towel in a colander and let it sit until it's thick enough - apparently you can even make "yogurt cheese" if you let it drain long enough, but I haven't tried that yet.

    Hadn't heard the water+vinegar suggestion for cleaning - I'll have to give that a shot. I've declined to make yogurt a few times because I had cooked something strong-flavored recently.

    Ricotta is well worth trying if you haven't yet - way tastier than store bought, and about as much work as yogurt. Uses a lot of milk though, you get about 1c cheese for 4c milk. Pasteurize, then immediately stir gently while *slowly* pouring in 1/4c 5% vinegar per half gallon milk and let sit for 20 minutes for curds to finish forming, then spoon them out with a slotted spoon. Pour the acid in too quickly and you get giant super-rubbery curd, like bad cottage cheese (Though supposedly you can stir it in before pasteurizing, as it needs both the heat and stirring to kick start the curdling process). You can also use lemon juice instead of vinegar for more flavor, but the acidity isn't as consistent. I tried draining it through my yogurt arrangement, but it didn't work at all - the finer curds immediately clog the towel. Even with cheesecloth it takes forever to drain if you try to just pour the whole mix through.

    You can also make fresh cheese/farmers cheese by immediately tying the fresh curd in a double-layer of cheesecloth and putting it under a weighted plate for an hour or 12, depending on desired dryness. Loses a lot of the milky richness though, and personally I think it *really* needs heavy seasoning. Also, it doesn't melt like normal cheeses.

    I've never used a rice-cooker, but find the IP makes excellent rice, and will handle brown, wild, etc. just fine as well using normal pressure cooking for a longer period. I think one of the things that really sold me on it initially (in addition to the fact that a computerized pressure cooker is just brilliant), was that it could double as a rice cooker and yogurt maker - things I'd never been able to justify the cupboard space for. As well as being a (somewhat lacking) slow cooker. Though frankly, I don't think I've ever used it as a slow cooker, though it did replace it. Why slow cook when you can get as good or better results quickly?

    Oh, one last great use: making broth from left-over bones, carcasses, and vegetable trimmings (just toss them in the freezer until you've accumulated enough). The soup setting avoids a hard boil, so the broth stays fairly clear, and you don't need all the time and attention that kept me from ever making a decent broth. Then use the broth instead of water for just about anything that could use more flavor (like beans, rice,...)

  • (Score: 2) by insanumingenium on Wednesday November 21 2018, @06:11PM (2 children)

    by insanumingenium (4824) on Wednesday November 21 2018, @06:11PM (#764854) Journal

    I have never heard of using it to caramelize onions. But it doesn't seem intuitively to be a great option.

    Caramelization starts happening rapidly around 160c according to wikipedia [wikipedia.org]
    Maillard reaction is probably also happening (even if it isn't the primary effect with onions) at very similar at 140-165c according to wikipedia [wikipedia.org]

    But an instant pot is only good for like 15psi at most (and as I understanding working pressure is more like 11psi), and stovetop pressure cookers seem to top out around 22psi (yes pressure is in freedom units because those are the sources I quickly found).

    Take the boiling point of water at best case 38 psi absolute (since the pressure cooker is relative to atmosphere obviously, and I am rounding up for science) then according to the first answer I found [engineeringtoolbox.com] you are only going to make 129c.

    Baking soda of course lowers pH which speeds both of these processes.

    Now the bottom of the vessel will obviously reach higher temperatures even if only in hotspots, and will therefore allow some caramelization, but optimal caramelization would seem to require holding a consistent temperature around but preferably above 160. Time to rig up an electric element to a sand bath and do some experimenting.

    • (Score: 2) by takyon on Wednesday November 21 2018, @06:27PM (1 child)

      by takyon (881) <takyonNO@SPAMsoylentnews.org> on Wednesday November 21 2018, @06:27PM (#764867) Journal

      This is the link I actually wanted to share. It goes into greater detail about the case for using a pressure cooker to caramelize onions:

      https://www.seriouseats.com/2016/01/the-food-lab-pressure-cooker-caramelized-onions-onion-soup.html [seriouseats.com]

      Let's back up for a second and take a look at our goals when we're caramelizing onions. There are a couple of things going on. First, there's caramelization: the breakdown of complex sugars into smaller base units that then get recombined into a series of more complex molecules, which simultaneously add sweetness and complexity. Second, there's Maillard browning: the similar reactions that take place between proteins and sugar, adding a rich brown color and flavor to your food.

      Both of these reactions require relatively high temperatures in order to take place. When you're sautéing, the temperature in the pan is largely regulated by the water content remaining in your vegetables. At first, as onions start to expel moisture from inside their cells, the energy in the pan mostly goes toward evaporating that liquid. The pan has a tough time rising above the 212°F boiling point of water. In this temperature range, not much browning or caramelization can take place. Only after sufficient moisture has evaporated can the temperature in the pot rise high enough to start browning and caramelizing in earnest.

      But there's a problem: Without the built-in regulation of moisture, it's very easy for the temperature inside the pot to rise too rapidly. Your onions can go from caramelized to burnt in a split second, and even a few bits of burnt-onion juice will ruin the flavor of the entire pot. That's why caramelization is such a slow, painstaking process. The gentler the heat you use, the fewer burnt compounds you produce, and the better the flavor of the result. Of course, low heat also means extra time.

      That's where the pressure cooker comes in.

      A pressure cooker removes that 212°F limit on moist foods. By trapping steam inside the sealed chamber of a pressure cooker, you create pressure, which in turn raises the boiling point of the liquid.

      Because of this, a pressure cooker operating at high pressure (that's 15 pounds per square inch above atmospheric pressure for most models) can achieve non-boiling water temperatures of around 250°F. In this temperature range, sugars will caramelize, and the Maillard reaction will take place quite nicely. Thus, a pressure cooker allows you to increase the rate of caramelization for onions without the risk of accidentally burning them.

      I've seen some recipes that call for placing onions inside Mason jars, then placing the jars in a pressure cooker. While this method works, I find it to be almost more tedious than the traditional route, especially considering that it severely limits the volume of onions you can caramelize at once. I prefer to start by melting a few tablespoons of butter in a pressure cooker, then add a few pounds of thinly sliced onions along with a little salt and pepper and a small touch of baking soda. (Baking soda raises the pH of the mixture, which speeds up the rate of the Maillard reaction.) I let the onions soften just enough to begin releasing juices, then cover up the pressure cooker and heat it to high pressure, adjusting the flame as necessary to keep it there. (You want to maintain high pressure without heating it so much that it starts to vent steam. An electric pressure cooker makes this very easy.)*

      * With some thin-bottomed pressure cookers, you may experience scorching in the onions. If you use a particularly thin pressure cooker, add a cup of water to the pot before sealing it to prevent this.

      After 20 minutes at high pressure, I rapidly release the steam, then crack the cooker open. What you end up with inside is onions that are very soft, a rich brown, and extremely sweet-smelling. The stuff is good, but we're not quite done yet.

      In order to get maximum caramelized flavor, we want to now reduce what's left of the water in the mixture while continuously stirring, so that we can get those last bits of caramelization that occur above 250°F. It takes just a couple of minutes for the onions to go from golden brown to rich, deep, truly caramelized dark brown.

      And here's the good news: This stuff is great. I mean, as-good-as-slow-cooked-caramelized-onions great.

      I enjoyed the results from when I did it. I might try it again tomorrow if I have leftover onions.

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      • (Score: 2) by Immerman on Thursday November 22 2018, @05:48PM

        by Immerman (3985) on Thursday November 22 2018, @05:48PM (#765253)

        Intruiging... I'm half tempted to go pick up some onions to try for this afternoon's feast, but I think I'll wait for a more leisurely day to experiment.

        Thank you - that's a much more informative page than just a recipe. Hopefully the combination of high altitude (-3psi) and the instant pot's mere 11psi "high" won't push me below the magic temperature.

  • (Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Thursday November 22 2018, @12:34AM (3 children)

    by Anonymous Coward on Thursday November 22 2018, @12:34AM (#765006)

    I assume you've got one of the InstantPots that have the "Yogurt" button? I've got the Lux model, which doesn't. No wonder I had no idea you could make yogurt in these things.

    • (Score: 2) by takyon on Thursday November 22 2018, @02:18AM (1 child)

      by takyon (881) <takyonNO@SPAMsoylentnews.org> on Thursday November 22 2018, @02:18AM (#765038) Journal

      Yes. Before I got one I just near boiled milk in a pot, let it cool and added the starter, put a lid on it, and stuck it in an oven that could hold a temperature of ~115°F for a long time. Dead simple but there are probably a lot of ovens that can't go that low.

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      • (Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Thursday November 22 2018, @06:03AM

        by Anonymous Coward on Thursday November 22 2018, @06:03AM (#765080)

        That's what the oven light is for.

    • (Score: 2) by takyon on Thursday November 22 2018, @02:24AM

      by takyon (881) <takyonNO@SPAMsoylentnews.org> on Thursday November 22 2018, @02:24AM (#765041) Journal

      I should add that if you can't hold the temperature at 115°F, you can also just leave the milk out to cool back to room temperature [soylentnews.org].

      Turns out making yogurt is really easy. That's why yogurtmaking has been around for thousands of years.

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