(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Monday November 16 2020, @04:41PM
(2 children)
by Anonymous Coward
on Monday November 16 2020, @04:41PM (#1077824)
That would be one big CNC router to mill a workbench flat on top! The low cost ones (for wood working--like cutting out kitchen counter tops) never looked that stiff to me. I'd ask carefully to see how flat (planar) they can hold on a large single surface. My 3" aluminum angle is stiffer than the bridge on most of the lower cost CNC routers that I've seen.
I've done the hand work to resurface a maple butcher-block workbench (3x6 feet) and it took a long time. If I'd been able to "machine" it planar using this router approach (which I learned later), then I would have been able to focus on the hand cabinet-scraper work that generated a lovely surface.
That would be one big CNC router to mill a workbench flat on top!
If I were to have a CNC that big, I'd barely need a workbench. A flat surface for sanding/assembly the pieces would mostly suffice in most of the cases.
In any case, the "planing by router" is equivalent to building a CNC table/gantry then move the router by hand - the flatness of the surface will be as good as the stiffness of frame/bridge you build in this one-off fashion; if those two are stiff enough, you can use the same for a full DIY CNC build.
(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday November 17 2020, @02:29AM
by Anonymous Coward
on Tuesday November 17 2020, @02:29AM (#1078070)
Earlier I hadn't looked at the video you linked, which I just did. Thanks! It looks like the router sled has caught up with my old toolmaker, who built his supports directly onto the work. That's what I did for the tree stump, which wasn't going to be moved! As you say, the router box & sled are the core of a CNC 2D router setup. Since I moved the router (with a smaller bit) freehand on my long bridge, I didn't get nice straight cuts, in fact I "mowed in spirals" on the high spots first. Hardly matters since there is going to be a secondary smoothing process.
In your link, and also another one, both of those guys relied on another flat surface, rather than checking that their guide surfaces were in one plane: first guy relied on his floor being flat (not always a great assumption) and the second one relied on having a flat work table (but it didn't look very stiff). Since they were making decorative tables (and not a work bench), that was probably flat enough.
(Score: 2) by c0lo on Monday November 16 2020, @06:18AM (3 children)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmUloHQjvOw [youtube.com]
Because I need to get used with a plane anyway.
Otherwise, why using hand tools when you can build/buy a CNC?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoFiw2jMy-0
(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Monday November 16 2020, @04:41PM (2 children)
That would be one big CNC router to mill a workbench flat on top! The low cost ones (for wood working--like cutting out kitchen counter tops) never looked that stiff to me. I'd ask carefully to see how flat (planar) they can hold on a large single surface. My 3" aluminum angle is stiffer than the bridge on most of the lower cost CNC routers that I've seen.
I've done the hand work to resurface a maple butcher-block workbench (3x6 feet) and it took a long time. If I'd been able to "machine" it planar using this router approach (which I learned later), then I would have been able to focus on the hand cabinet-scraper work that generated a lovely surface.
(Score: 2) by c0lo on Monday November 16 2020, @09:32PM (1 child)
If I were to have a CNC that big, I'd barely need a workbench. A flat surface for sanding/assembly the pieces would mostly suffice in most of the cases.
In any case, the "planing by router" is equivalent to building a CNC table/gantry then move the router by hand - the flatness of the surface will be as good as the stiffness of frame/bridge you build in this one-off fashion; if those two are stiff enough, you can use the same for a full DIY CNC build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoFiw2jMy-0
(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday November 17 2020, @02:29AM
Earlier I hadn't looked at the video you linked, which I just did. Thanks! It looks like the router sled has caught up with my old toolmaker, who built his supports directly onto the work. That's what I did for the tree stump, which wasn't going to be moved! As you say, the router box & sled are the core of a CNC 2D router setup. Since I moved the router (with a smaller bit) freehand on my long bridge, I didn't get nice straight cuts, in fact I "mowed in spirals" on the high spots first. Hardly matters since there is going to be a secondary smoothing process.
In your link, and also another one, both of those guys relied on another flat surface, rather than checking that their guide surfaces were in one plane: first guy relied on his floor being flat (not always a great assumption) and the second one relied on having a flat work table (but it didn't look very stiff). Since they were making decorative tables (and not a work bench), that was probably flat enough.