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Journal by c0lo

One day I'll have time for these.
All of them require no screws, nails or glue.

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The Fine Print: The following comments are owned by whoever posted them. We are not responsible for them in any way.
  • (Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Monday November 16 2020, @04:41PM (2 children)

    by Anonymous Coward on Monday November 16 2020, @04:41PM (#1077824)

    That would be one big CNC router to mill a workbench flat on top! The low cost ones (for wood working--like cutting out kitchen counter tops) never looked that stiff to me. I'd ask carefully to see how flat (planar) they can hold on a large single surface. My 3" aluminum angle is stiffer than the bridge on most of the lower cost CNC routers that I've seen.

    I've done the hand work to resurface a maple butcher-block workbench (3x6 feet) and it took a long time. If I'd been able to "machine" it planar using this router approach (which I learned later), then I would have been able to focus on the hand cabinet-scraper work that generated a lovely surface.

  • (Score: 2) by c0lo on Monday November 16 2020, @09:32PM (1 child)

    by c0lo (156) on Monday November 16 2020, @09:32PM (#1077937) Journal

    That would be one big CNC router to mill a workbench flat on top!

    If I were to have a CNC that big, I'd barely need a workbench. A flat surface for sanding/assembly the pieces would mostly suffice in most of the cases.

    In any case, the "planing by router" is equivalent to building a CNC table/gantry then move the router by hand - the flatness of the surface will be as good as the stiffness of frame/bridge you build in this one-off fashion; if those two are stiff enough, you can use the same for a full DIY CNC build.

    --
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoFiw2jMy-0
    • (Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday November 17 2020, @02:29AM

      by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday November 17 2020, @02:29AM (#1078070)

      Earlier I hadn't looked at the video you linked, which I just did. Thanks! It looks like the router sled has caught up with my old toolmaker, who built his supports directly onto the work. That's what I did for the tree stump, which wasn't going to be moved! As you say, the router box & sled are the core of a CNC 2D router setup. Since I moved the router (with a smaller bit) freehand on my long bridge, I didn't get nice straight cuts, in fact I "mowed in spirals" on the high spots first. Hardly matters since there is going to be a secondary smoothing process.

      In your link, and also another one, both of those guys relied on another flat surface, rather than checking that their guide surfaces were in one plane: first guy relied on his floor being flat (not always a great assumption) and the second one relied on having a flat work table (but it didn't look very stiff). Since they were making decorative tables (and not a work bench), that was probably flat enough.