Announcing the Raspberry Pi PoE+ HAT
The Raspberry Pi Foundation has just announced the Raspberry Pi PoE+ HAT compliant with 802.3at (aka PoE+) and 802.3af standards and support for up to 25.5 Watts input.
It will replace the Raspberry Pi PoE HAT introduced in 2018 which was limited to 802.3af standard with a maximum of 15.4 Watts input and will become available around mid-June for $20 plus taxes and shipping.
HAT = Hardware Attached on Top.
Here is a competing Waveshare PoE HAT for Raspberry Pi 3B+/4B.
Also at CNX Software.
(Score: 2) by Booga1 on Monday May 24 2021, @09:30PM (9 children)
I am struggling to think of where I would want to use PoE for a Raspberry Pi.
I've got a PoE and a PoE camera, but I find that for my particular needs the wireless is good enough and I have power already where I can plug in the camera. PoE is great if you don't already have power and wireless is either fickle or non-existent. So, I am having a hard time thinking of where I would be willing to run an ethernet cable to where the object on the end would be a Raspberry Pi...
(Score: 1, Interesting) by Anonymous Coward on Monday May 24 2021, @11:14PM (2 children)
There are many applications: clusters, industrial, high-security, remote installs, high availability. PoE makes all of those easier in slightly different ways.
(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday May 25 2021, @02:20PM (1 child)
Yeah, but why would you use a raspi instead of something that is well designed and guaranteed to last for a decade or a more?
(Score: 1, Interesting) by Anonymous Coward on Wednesday May 26 2021, @01:13AM
The original question is where a PoE would help with a pi. As to why you would use a pi at all is a different question. Clusters of pis are helpful for practicing on commodity hardware with widespread support, or when the embarrassingly parallel nature of your problem benefits from 10+ pis vs 1 server. Industrial settings are hard on everything and often don't have power available where you want it, better to have the minimum buy-in that is easily field replaced by untrained individuals than dedicated hardware that leads to downtime. Remote installs are often out of your control or expensive to replace and often don't have power available where you want it, using a well-known pi, makes all of that setup easier. High availability requires redundancy, easy failover, and repair and the pi makes that easier to get on independent machines for relatively low cost.
(Score: 2, Interesting) by Anonymous Coward on Monday May 24 2021, @11:37PM (1 child)
For me was desk clutter.
Wall-warts, USB power blocks and cables, routine twice wire. Power loss in longer USB wires at 5V at 3A. Yes, I have power related crashes, One was bad enough to corrupt a self powered disk drive!.
1 PoE Swtch,
8 Ethernet wires (guage not as important at 50+V, so current is less than 0.3A),
8 PoE Hats
8 RPi4B
1 power plug! Priceless.
(Score: 1, Interesting) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday May 25 2021, @06:41AM
I was similarly annoyed with the number of power strips and outlets I needed for my infrastructure (and figured the mostly lightly-loaded supplies probably wasn't great for efficiency). As I keep expanding it, and already exceeding the power budget on my af switch, I was pretty much faced with a bigger PoE switch, with fans that I wasn't looking forward to, and a stack of PoE hats and adapters (and between the PoE switches and adapters, gets pretty pricey pretty quickly).
Ended up going another way, and figuring pretty much everything wants either 12v or 5v, so I just grabbed an ITX supply for like $30 (it was small, but on reflection, I'll probably swap it for an ATX for the bigger/quieter fan at some point, already hacked in a slightly larger fan). Yeah, I had to make up some molex->various cables, but it is super flexible, cheap, easy to replace (got old spares on hand in a pinch) and has been serving me well.
Still playing with pi enclosures, but currently running bricks of 3, coming off a molex. 12v to run a relatively large slow fan for the brick, and probably overkill but have them individually switched off the 5v. I was initially doing USB, but hated the side connections, so now it is just front and back and I can stack the bricks next to each other (not entirely unlike what one could do with PoE).
Just some ideas for the cheap/indecisive/etc who don't mind a bit of DIY.
(Score: 4, Interesting) by JoeMerchant on Tuesday May 25 2021, @01:20AM (3 children)
I have a couple of audio devices connected to power and wifi, would be as good - often better - to connect them to wired ethernet only with the PoE hat instead of a wall-wart for power. Better still if the PoE hat is compatible to stack with a DAC/Amp, and comes with a nice case that houses the 3-stack (unlikely without 3D printing.)
Україна досі не є частиною Росії Слава Україні🌻 https://news.stanford.edu/2023/02/17/will-russia-ukraine-war-end
(Score: 1, Interesting) by Anonymous Coward on Tuesday May 25 2021, @03:47AM (2 children)
If you look at the larger version of the picture, you will see it has a series of holes drilled in it. That is so you can use headers with longer pins to place in the Pi's header. The remaining pins are split and both the PoE HAT and the other hat you are using. It is almost 100% compatible with the boards but you do have to keep in mind the absolute potential difference that may occur because the PoE device's naturally isolated state.
(Score: 2) by JoeMerchant on Wednesday May 26 2021, @02:25AM (1 child)
As long as the DAC drivers still work this should be fine - the speaker the amp is driving also floats... Now: how much audio-band noise do the PoE circuits make?
Україна досі не є частиною Росії Слава Україні🌻 https://news.stanford.edu/2023/02/17/will-russia-ukraine-war-end
(Score: 0) by Anonymous Coward on Wednesday May 26 2021, @07:25AM
I can't answer that. There is quite a bit that goes into a calculation like that, but they haven't released the necessary information to figure that out that I could find. Some PoE circuits will have mains hum if the cable isn't shielded, they are improperly grounded, or built too cheaply, but these shouldn't have that problem in a way that isn't easily rectified. This means your main concern will be the switch noise and harmonics, which I cannot characterize. Some make no noise in those bands, others are partially filtered, some just don't care.